Traveling in Togo
In the Land of Voodoo
We are happy to take you along on the second part of our journey through West Africa, to Togo. After our trip to Ghana, we didn’t expect too many new things. However, we were surprised: Togo is even less developed than Ghana and also culturally very different from Ghana.
Our Togo Travel
Why Togo?
The first questions we were asked when we told people about our destination were often unspoken: Why Togo? Where is Togo? It’s dangerous and there are lots of diseases, etc. But since we wanted to get to know the original and authentic Africa after our trip through South Africa and Swaziland, we decided to find out more about these questions. Original and authentic: This meant we could already rule out the north, the safari countries in the east, and the south of Africa. Many countries in West Africa are subject to travel warnings, which ultimately left us with a choice between Senegal, Gambia, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Benin, and Gabon. We finally decided on the middle: Ghana and Togo.
Interesting facts about Togo
First of all, it is important to be aware that, unlike many other countries, Togo has few tourist attractions. You should also not expect a high level of comfort when traveling to Togo. Although there are plenty of hotels, the standard is significantly lower than what we are used to in Europe.
On the other hand, you get to experience an absolutely authentic country far removed from everything we are used to. During our three-week trip, we hardly saw any other white people, and when we did, they were development aid workers. We didn’t see any vacationers or backpackers.
On our trip, we were the first white people many children had ever seen. Many children, but also adults, just wanted to touch us, but some children also ran away crying. Speaking of children: there are plenty of them in Togo. On average, a woman gives birth to 4.9 children and the average life expectancy is around 19 years. Our trip was more about getting to know the culture and the people.
Togo has many different national languages, but French is the official language. And even this is poorly spoken by the Togolese. However, as we don’t speak French anyway, we often had to rely on Google Translate. Unfortunately, we found that many people in Togo cannot read. This meant that we often had to resort to using our hands and feet as a means of communication. But even that usually worked quite well.
The people in Togo are extremely warm and we felt comfortable from the very first minute. Compared to Ghana, however, we often felt like a walking ATM, which we could understand given the poverty. On our trip, we were also happy to pay the tourist surcharge, but sometimes this was 10 times the regular price. Then we had to negotiate a little, as our travel budget was limited.
You definitely shouldn’t expect a feel-good vacation in Togo. Due to the often difficult search for hotels and transportation, combined with limited communication options, traveling in Togo can be quite an adventure.
There is one thing you always have to keep in mind in Togo: people don’t like being photographed without being asked. You always have to get their consent or at least take photos discreetly.
Shopping in Togo
The only place to buy everyday items in Togo is at the markets along the streets. There are no shops as we know them. Instead, there are market stalls on practically every street corner, unless you are far away from civilization. So there is usually no need for extensive planning here.
Stay connected in Togo
Compared to the rest of the infrastructure, the communications network in Togo is well developed almost everywhere. We used an e-SIM from Airalo and had access to the World Wide Web everywhere, mostly with really good quality. This makes travel planning much easier, of course.
How poor is Togo?
First, we should ask ourselves what “being poor” really means. To turn the question around: Is it wealth when our children become fatter from generation to generation and spend all their free time in front of the computer? Or when older people live in loneliness? In Togo, there is basically nothing to buy that is not absolutely necessary for survival. With one exception: smartphones. Our feeling was that the basic needs of most people in Togo are met and there is enough food available. Things that are not necessary for survival are rare. Computer games do not exist, so children still play in the streets. Of course, there are no overweight children. The more urban the area, the more prosperous it is. Although prosperous is probably the wrong term here. Far away from the cities, however, we sometimes had the feeling that people were living in poverty, i.e. that there was also a shortage of food.
In general, we found the people we met to be happy and content. In this respect, we would answer the question “Is Togo poor?” with no.
Compared to Ghana, however, we unfortunately had the impression that the education of children in Togo plays a (still) subordinate role. In Ghana, children were often forbidden to beg. In Togo, we were confronted with begging children more often.
Costs of a trip to Togo
A vacation in Togo is relatively expensive. In particular, the costs incurred before even arriving in the country amounted to around €1,200 per person for us, including vaccinations, medication, flights, and visas. Once in the country, we needed around another €400 per person for eight days. It should be mentioned here that we are low-budget travelers. Below you will find a list of the costs you can expect in Togo.
- Flight: $1,000.00 (cheaper depending on travel time)
- Visa: $110.00
Medication: $150.00 (including malaria prophylaxis) - Hotels: $15.00 to $40.00 for a double room
- Transportation: short distances $1.00 – $2.00, longer distances up to $12.00 (public transportation only, private transportation is naturally more expensive)
- Meals: $6.00 (simple restaurants)
- Tours and activities: $5.00 – $10.00
Best time to travel
In Togo, there is no distinction between summer, fall, winter, and spring, but rather between the dry season (November to April) and the rainy season (May to October). There is also a short dry season in August. Generally speaking, the northern regions are warmer than the southern regions. The climate is tropical all year round. We were in Togo at the end of July and beginning of August. With temperatures around 27 degrees Celsius and mostly overcast skies, it was much more pleasant than we had imagined. Most of the time, we were able to sleep well without air conditioning, just with a fan. There were a few rainy days, but they weren’t really a bother. If we visit West Africa again, and we will probably choose Sierra Leone, we will definitely choose the same time of year.
Backpack or suitcase
Definitely a backpack. Ideally, not too big, as you sometimes have to cover quite long distances. We used 42-liter backpacks for our trip. Of course, we had to be economical with our luggage.
Transportation in Togo
Since we wanted to experience Togo as authentically as possible, we used only public transportation. In Togo, this means taxis, tricycles, or motorcycle taxis in the cities and mostly shared taxis or minibuses for longer distances. Since basically everyone in Togo uses public transportation, we thought it would be relatively easy to get from A to B. At least that was the case in our first destination, Ghana. In Togo, however, it is much more difficult, especially in rural areas. The biggest hurdle was the lack of communication options and finding the bus terminals. Patience is required here and, ideally, no strict schedule. The vehicles usually only leave when they are full. And full means overcrowded! You also have to get used to the travel times in Togo, and the data from Google Maps is way off.
Mototaxis can be ordered quickly and easily from the street in cities. They are inexpensive and also take two passengers with large backpacks. However, traveling by mototaxi is certainly the greatest danger in Togo, and after a few very dangerous situations, we stopped using them.
Tricycles are particularly available in Lome, inexpensive, and also significantly safer than motorcycle taxis.
Taxis can be ordered in larger cities via Uber, Bolt, or even cheaper via the Gozem app. Of course, it is also possible to hail taxis on the street, but usually they are more expensive.
Shared taxis can also be hailed on the street and are another very inexpensive way to get from A to B. However, you should be prepared for very little comfort. The front passenger seat is shared by two people, and the back seat by at least four, if not five.
Tro Tro’s are minibuses with little comfort. There is not much room to stretch your legs. The condition of the vehicles, regardless of type, is often very, very poor. For example, the speedometers rarely work. However, we did not have the opportunity to ride in a Tro Tro in Togo.
Apart from carrying many passengers, vehicles of all kinds also serve as material transport.
Togo and its beaches
The beaches of Togo are beautiful. Except that they are often completely littered with trash, and swimming is dangerous due to the extreme currents. During our entire stay, we didn’t see anyone swimming in the sea. You also have to constantly watch where you step, as people simply relieve themselves (both small and large) on the beach.
Togo and the trash
Unfortunately, trash is also a major problem in the rest of Togo. There does not seem to be a functioning waste disposal system, and trash cans are practically non-existent. Everything is simply thrown away wherever you happen to be. This was also a completely new experience for us. We have never encountered anything on this scale before on our travels.
Voodoo in Togo
Many people probably know voodoo from movies. We associate voodoo with dolls with needles that cause evil. That is true, but in voodoo, a distinction is made between “good” voodoo and “evil” voodoo. In Togo, there is only good voodoo. Here, offerings are made to the voodoo spirits in the form of food or other items, for example to protect a house or restore erectile function. We found the story quite interesting, but also a little bizarre.
Our travel planning
While there are plenty of blogs, travel guides, and similar resources available for many countries around the world, travel literature for Togo is rather sparse. We pored over the available sources and even ordered the only travel guide available. However, our questions remained unanswered until we arrived. This is another reason why Togo may not be the most suitable country for a first backpacking trip.
Vaccinations
The starting point for our travel preparations was to refresh all our travel vaccinations. A yellow fever vaccination is mandatory. Without it, you cannot enter Ghana or Togo. A list of all recommended vaccinations can be found on the website of the Tropical Institute. The greatest health risk comes from mosquito-borne diseases such as malaria, Crimean-Congo hemorrhagic fever, dengue fever, etc. Sufficient insect repellent with a high DEET content should therefore be included in your luggage. There is a high risk of malaria throughout the country all year round. It is therefore mandatory to take malaria tablets with you. Whether these are taken prophylactically or as emergency medicine must be clarified by each individual with their doctor. We have decided to take them prophylactically.
Flights
We booked our flights on Swoodoo. They offer quite cheap flights, especially in autumn and spring. Unfortunately, we were traveling in July and August, so our flights were a little more expensive. We ended up booking a flight with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul to Accra. We then traveled overland to Togo. Air France offers a direct connection from Europe to Togo.
Visa
A visa is required to enter Togo. This must be applied for online in advance for EUR 40.00. You will then receive your entry permit at the border. Compared to Ghana, the procedure was very simple. However, it is important to note that the same online application must also be submitted online for departure. Of course, we did not know this and had to do it quickly at the airport. Computers are provided for this purpose. However, it is essential to allow a little extra time at the airport.
travel itinerary
Once the vaccinations, visas, and flight bookings were taken care of, we got down to the detailed planning. We rarely plan too much in advance on our trips. We only decide on a rough itinerary. We are also interested in transport options, i.e., how to get from A to B, and hotel booking options. Booking.com, for example, is not available everywhere, so we mostly booked directly on site. We hardly met any other hotel guests during our entire trip. Since we also visited Ghana on our trip, we concentrated on the southern part of Togo and tried to avoid overly long journeys. Our destinations were Lomé, Kpalimé, Notse, Togoville, and Aneho.
Since we like to visit many different regions on our vacations and are always on the move, 8 days were enough for us to visit southern Togo. However, if you prefer to take it a little easier, you should plan on 14 days. If you also want to visit the northern regions, you should plan on three weeks.
Let's Go
Day 1: Arrival in Togo & Onward journey to Kpalime
Since we had already visited Ghana, we entered Togo overland at the Aflao border crossing. Thanks to our visas, which we had applied for online, the entry formalities were completed quite quickly. Proof of yellow fever vaccination is also required upon entry. Without this, you are not allowed to enter Togo. The international vaccination certificate is sufficient here. We then exchanged our Ghanaian cedis for CFA francs and jumped into a motorcycle taxi, which took us to the heart of the capital, Lomé, in a few minutes. There, we withdrew money from an ATM at a much better exchange rate. We then set out to find transportation to Kpalime in the interior of the country. This is where we realized for the first time that transportation in Togo is much more complex than in Ghana. We needed a tricycle, but it didn’t take us to the right place, so we had to take another taxi until we found a shared taxi on the sidewalk of a busy street, which then took us to Kpalime in three hours.
Once there, we checked into the Hotel Ganiela and took a stroll through Kpalime. Kpalime is located on a high plateau and is something of a vacation spot for the people of Lomé. It was actually a very pretty little town, although the infrastructure was comparable to the rest of the country. We enjoyed strolling through the town. Here, we also experienced the German influence from the colonial period before 1915. The Germans built a beautiful church here.
Day 2 in Kpalime & Trekking at Mont Agou
As passionate mountaineers, climbing Togo’s highest mountain, the 978-meter-high Mont Agou, was a must for us. From Kpalime, we ordered a motorcycle taxi to take us to the foot of Mont Agou, 15 kilometers away. There, you have to buy a ticket before climbing, which you then have to show to a soldier just below the summit in order to be allowed to climb the last few meters. There are two ways to the summit: a paved road and a hiking trail through villages. We decided to take the hiking trail. The villages we passed through were truly breathtakingly beautiful, and the diverse flora and the view were magnificent. Be sure to bring plenty of water, as the climb is very strenuous. On the way, a local student joined us and bombarded us with a thousand questions. At the summit, we learned from the soldier that there is a French summit and a German summit. The Germans believed that the highest point was somewhere other than the one defined by the French as the highest point.
For the descent, we decided to take the asphalt road in the hope of finding a motorcycle taxi. After a short descent, we were lucky. However, this is where we had our first very unpleasant ride at excessive speed on a winding road. It was only by luck that our driver was able to avoid an oncoming vehicle. Back in Lome, we changed mototaxis and headed west towards the Ghanaian border. There we found Mont Kloto, which is also beautifully nestled in the wooded hills around Kpalime. The ascent here was relatively easy and short, but no less beautiful. Afterwards, we returned to Kpalime and the Hotel Ganiela.
Day 3 in Notse
Since we already knew how difficult it is to find bus terminals in Togo, we started looking for them the day before. And here, too, it took several inquiries before we were able to find the right place. Early in the morning, we were able to throw our backpacks into the trunk of a shared taxi and then, well, then it was time to wait. As we know, we always leave when the vehicle is “overcrowded.” Since our chosen route is rather infrequently traveled and it was also a Sunday, we waited two hours before handing the driver the ticket price for the entire car. The journey from Kpalime to Notse was short but very adventurous. Here we learned what it means to travel even slightly off the typical north-south route. The 70-kilometer journey took us about three hours and we almost got seasick. There was hardly a meter of the road that didn’t have a deep pothole. Our driver made full use of the approximately 10-meter-wide road from left to right to find the smoothest possible route – unsuccessfully! We refueled from bottles …
We also passed through several villages that were far removed from civilization. When we arrived in Notse, we went to one of the only places to stay in the town and, of course, we were in luck—there was still plenty of room. No wonder—once again, we were the only guests in the hotel.
There is hardly any tourism in Togo anyway. During our entire trip, we saw maybe 12 other white people, all of whom were development aid workers, and no other backpackers like us, and we had all the accommodations in Togo to ourselves. In Notse, however, we are now really far from what you would call touristy. Strolling through the streets and markets, we had a somewhat oppressive feeling, as the poverty here was clearly noticeable. A downpour then turned the sandy streets into slippery roller coasters. There were no paved roads or beautiful houses here anymore. If you want to visit Notse, you should be forewarned. It can definitely turn your stomach.
Day 4 and our trip to the voodoo city of Togoville
After a long walk with our backpacks through Notse to the main road, which runs from the south to the far north, we took a shared taxi back to the outskirts of Lome in about three hours. We continued by motorcycle taxi to the city center. Here we had another dangerous experience and drifted sideways for a few meters. Fortunately, the driver was just able to prevent a fall. We then took a shared taxi directly to Agbodrafo. Here, you can cross the lake in traditional fishing boats, known as pirogues, and arrive directly in the small voodoo village of Togoville. We ended the day with a walk through the village.
Day 5 in Togoville
For Togoville, we booked a local guide who taught us about the history of the village and much more about Togo. Togoville still has the railway network that was built by the Germans before 1915. Unfortunately, only small parts of the former network are still usable. The insights into political issues were also interesting. Togo is practically a dictatorship, and many people are dissatisfied with the country’s leadership. However, the Togolese certainly like to remember the German colonial period. A monument to this was erected in Togoville in 2015. Many people in Togo even speak German, which surprised us greatly.
We then crossed the lake again to Agbodrafo and enjoyed a few hours on the beach. We continued our journey on the back of a tricycle to the fishing village of Aneho, close to the border with Benin.
Day 6 in Aneho
As the end of our trip was slowly approaching, we wanted to take it easy. We strolled through the fishing village and along the coast towards Benin. Since there were no border officials to be seen anywhere along the beach at the border with Benin, we decided to pay a quick visit to Benin as well. Unfortunately, we encountered border officials on our way back, which left us struggling to explain ourselves. Our lack of communication skills didn’t make it any easier, of course. We were passed from one official to another. The last one responded to our predicament with a mischievous smile and let us re-enter Togo. At the end of the day, we ate some delicious fish. This is something you should definitely not miss on your trip to Togo along the coast!
We then took a motorbike taxi to visit the center of Aneho and were disappointed to find that the large market was closed. All we could see was the trash that had been left behind. However, there was an old church built by the Germans to visit. Here we were also able to climb the church tower and see the bell, probably illegally. On our way back, we met a woodcarver who immediately showed us his workshop and his products. Here in Togo, too, we experienced incredible warmth from the people.
Day 7 in Lome
We took a shared taxi back to our final destination, Lome. As there was a slightly wider choice of hotels here, we were able to find somewhere central to stay for the night. We then visited the voodoo fetish market, where offerings for voodoo rituals were on sale. A short guided tour is included in the ticket price.
We walked back to the city center. Here we realized that even in the capital, paved roads are rather scarce. When we arrived at the Grand Marche, which is located directly on the sea, we strolled around for a while looking for various souvenirs. Since there is actually nothing to buy in Togo that is not absolutely necessary, you have to search for a while to find something.
Day 8 in Lomé and journey home
A little tired and sad about our impending departure, we visited the fish market in Lome, which is located just outside the city, right by the sea. Here, the fishermen sell their catch directly. It was a great experience to see the variety of fish. On our tour, we were approached everywhere and immediately invited to work.
Afterwards, we strolled along the beach, which is right next to the city, and bought some last souvenirs at the Grand Marche. We said goodbye to Togo with one last fish dish and made our way to the airport. Since our flight didn’t leave until 3:10 a.m. and was the only one that night, we unfortunately had to wait outside the closed gates of the airport. After a very thorough baggage check, the border official informed us that we also had to apply for a visa to leave the country. There are four computers available for this purpose. If you are applying for the visa at the airport, we would advise you to allow some extra time. We took off on time at 3:10 a.m. on our way to Casablanca and then on to Istanbul and finally Munich. Exhausted, we collapsed into our camper next to the airport at 10:30 p.m. local time.
Conclusion to our journey
Togo is definitely not a tourist destination, and with a few exceptions, you won’t find any sights or beautiful landscapes here. But if you’re simply interested in new cultures, countries, and people, and already have some backpacking experience, a trip to West Africa is highly recommended. What we enjoyed most were the people, who were extremely warm and open to us despite the poor state of development in their country. Practically on every street corner, you are approached and welcomed into the very social life of the people. We hope you enjoyed reading our personal travel experience.
About us
Dalma & Markus
Born in Hungary and Austria respectively, we live in the Salzburg region in the heart of the Alps. Dalma is a self-employed physiotherapist, while Markus works for an online marketing agency in the summer and as a self-employed ski guide in Lech/Zürs am Arlberg in the winter. Outside of work, we use every spare moment to get to know the world a little better. Our travels have taken us to every continent in the world. The more exotic the destination, the more we love it. Feel free to contact us via our social media channels.
